More than half of all our shots are putts and the putter is by far the most used club in your bag: A very good reason to choose the right putter. The old adage ‘drive for show putt for dough’ is as true as it ever was today. Your score will improve a lot more with an average of 0.2 improvement in your putting average than 20 yards off the tee.
Golf technology has advanced to help us all. New types of putter are re-inventing many golfers .The following information will help you make a better decision on your next putter.
Face balanced putters are putters that will faces upwards when you balance the shaft on your finger. This will mean that the centre of gravity is directly below the axis of the shaft. Basically meaning it will straighten a putting stroke on the forward motion. This type of balance will suit those who have a straight stroke that goes 'back and through'.
Be sure to view the video on arc vs straight stroke in the video section.
Toe balanced putters are those whose toe was points to the ground when you balance the shaft on your finger. This means the centre of gravity is not directly below the shaft axis. This type of balance will suit a player with an in to out stroke.
Whichever style you prefer, you will find when you are switching putters it is better to stay with the type of face balance you are using as they require different types of strokes. However, with all this technology, if a putter feels good to you then you should use it, because the most important part of putting is confidence.
Basic Types of Putter
There are three main types of putter designs: blade, peripheral weighted and mallet. Each one has its own benefits and each one will differ from the other when studying face balance.
The oldest and most traditional type of putter is the blade. Ben Crenshaw is a great exponent of this type of putter. Using a relatively small head, its classic design is broadly used by players worldwide. The straightforward flat look offers a large degree of confidence to a player and the soft hit produced is likable on many types of greens. The safe choice when it comes to putters, they are traditionally suited to hard, faster greens that require soft control. Blade putters tend to be face-balanced suiting a player with a straighter putting stroke.
'Ping-Anser' was the original peripheral weighted putter and suits players who have an ‘in to out’ stroke. A common choice with professionals and amateurs the peripheral weighted putter has more of head to it than a blade putter but this also means it is not face balanced.
The alternative to the blade putter for many years has been the mallet headed putter. Heavier than a blade putter due to its size, the mallet putter more closely resembles a wood than a conventional putter. The deep design of the putter's head allows manufacturers to have a lower and deeper centre of gravity that is far away from the face, reducing backspin on your putts. Often with an insert on the face, they promote a soft hit from a large head. Most mallet putters are face-balanced and would suit a straight through and back stroke.
Inserts and Putter Faces
The type of face that you want on a putter depends on what ball you use and the speed of greens you are used to putting on. For example, you would not want to use a hard feeling golf ball on fast greens with a hard hitting metal faced putter. You should endeavour to find the right combination of ball and putter face to match the greens to which you most often putt on.
The main goal of inserted putter faces is to increase the 'Moment of Inertia (MOI) which helps to reduce the error rate – not hitting the centre of the club will not be as punitive. The MOI is the term applied to a club head’s resistance to twisting when the ball is struck. For example, your swing is a little off centre and you miss hit the ball on the toe of the club head, a club head with a higher MOI will bend less as a result of the miss hit, offering a better chance that the ball will still go straight. Each insert or face material has its own benefits and the following section describes exactly what they are:
Metal Faced Putters
The traditional putter face material is steel. Other types of metals have been used in the past and many are still used today: bronze, aluminium, brass, copper, zinc and titanium. The extremely strong and heavy nature of metal suits putter faces very well. Steel has a reputation for soft and responsive feedback giving the putters solid, controlled feel. One great benefit on a metal-faced putter is the noise feedback you gain. Immediately you can hear the type of connection you made on the ball and this allows you to feel and hear where the centre of your putter is. One new type of putter design involves grooves in a metal-faced putter – YES! Putters wear the first to come out with this technology. The downward C grooves on the face grip the ball when stuck and produce a smoother over-the-top action.
Insert Faced Putters
Insert putters are basically metal putters with the metal face replaced with a light-weight non-metal insert material. The main advantage of using such a light insert means the weight of the putter can be redistributed elsewhere on the putter face. Therefore the weight is added to the heel and toe of the putter offering a wider hitting area, hence less area. The insert gives putts a much smoother roll, rather than a hop or a skid by the boosted MOI.
There are many types of insert materials, but essentially they all do the same job. Some are there to reduce the MOI, others to promote a softer feel for use with harder longer distance golf ball to get the same feel as a metal faced putter and a softer golf ball.
Groove Faced Putters
A recent development has been the appearance of grooves on the face of a putter. This may seem to be the last thing you want but there is a reason for this.
On any putt, on any green, a putter's impact on the golf ball often results in skidding, sliding, back spinning, and even hopping before the ball can begin rolling on the green. Even when struck on the right line, these effects are the principal causes of missed putts. The key to more accurate putting is to achieve forward rolling motion immediately upon striking the ball.
The grooves on a putter face can help achieve this forward motion and keep the ball online. Upon impact with the golf ball the grooves grip the surface of the ball and simultaneously lift the ball out of its resting position and impart an over-the-top rolling action.
Just to complicate matters grooved putters are usually metal faced, but there are now some insert putters that have grooves too!!
The gutter perch ball has come along way since its humble beginnings. Today the golf ball is embattled in a fight: ethical verus technological advancements. If you make a ball go a long way it may make the classic traditonal older golf courses obsolete, but selling the ‘longest ball’ is good for business. The key issue here is, though, that the ball may fly longer but it does not mean straighter. 300 yards off the tee box may now be more obtainable for quite a few players, but that maybe also 50 yards further into trouble and indeed out of bounds.
Golf ball technology has advanced enormously in modern times and now finding the right ball for your game could nearly be as advantageous as selecting the right clubs. A golf ball in today’s marketplace is astonishing: the amount of money spent on research is incredible and the time and resources used to make ‘the little white ball’ is amazing. The new lingo in today’s market is ‘multi-layered solid core balls’ .
The construction of a golf ball is vitally important to the way it will react to contact with a club. Manufacturers are constantly pushing the limits of golf ball construction. Below are the three most basic constructions.
A one-piece golf ball is the most basic ball that is designed primarily for beginners and occasionally used as driving range balls, but seldom used as a playing ball. Made typically from a solid piece of Surlyn with dimples moulded in, it is an inexpensive and very hard-wearing golf ball, but does not give you the length when hit because of its lower compression, also has ofter feel on impact.
The two-piece is virtually indestructible and with its high roll distance, it is by far the most popular golf ball among ordinary golfers for its combined durability and distance. The balls are consrtucted with a single solid sphere, more often than not a hard plastic, inside in the ball’s cover. The solid core is typically a high-energy resin and is covered by a hard, cut-proof blended cover that gives the two-piece ball more distance than any other ball.
Three-piece golf balls have either a solid rubber or liquid core center, a layer of superior rubber or a liquid produced layer and over that is moulded cover of durable Surlyn, or balata. They are softer and create more spin, allowing a better golfer more control over the ball’s flight.
A recent addition to ball construction is the four-piece golf ball. Not as common at the moment but could be the direction the ball is headed in the future. Each layer or piece of a golf ball has a specific and different purpose. All the layers come together to offer the longest hitting, softest feeling golf ball. The inner core, the first layer, of the ball is the solid rubber centre that is primarily designed to offer explosive distance. The next, inner cover, layer is in the ball to transfer the energy from the strike to the hot core. Next is the middle cover, which is the extra layer, compared to a three-piece ball. It offers the complete layer that tries to increase driver distance whilst also producing mid iron spin and feel around the green. The external cover is where the feel of a golf ball is delivered and contains between 300-500 dimples. The thinnest layer made from Urethane, it is soft yet durable.
Low Spin Golf Balls
The lower spinning golf balls tend to decrease side spin of your shots, allowing the ball to fly straighter through the air. There are many low spin golf balls on the market suited for high handicap golfers that perhaps don’t have the swing speed required to produce that 300 yard drive.Mid Spin Golf Balls
Trying to incorporate the best of both distance and feel. Aimed towards the widest range of players and suitable to most player’s game, the mid spinning golf ball will offer solid distance with varied feel and softness depending on brand.
High Spin Golf Balls
This ball is designed to increase the balls spin in the air. If you are a player that hits the ball right to left with a draw, a high spinning golf ball could be the one for you. The high spinning golf ball will not get the run on the fairway that either a mid or low spinning ball can, however its greatest advantage is around the greens. A high spinning ball will increase feel around and on the greens, which will help players improve control.
The feel of the ball
Firm Feel Golf Balls
Usually aimed towards distance golf balls, the hard cover will produce a more explosive hit than a softer feeling ball. Therefore choosing a firm feeling golf ball will produce the maximum distance from your driver and irons, but you will sacrifice a certain amount of feel around the greens. It is aimed towards high handicap golfers who place more importance on distance and iron play than spinning shots into greens.
Mid Feel Golf Balls
Similar to a mid spinning golf ball, the mid feel ball acts as a compromise between the explosive distance from a firm ball and the feel of a soft ball. Again suited to most players’ game, it is aimed towards mid handicap golfers that desire distance as well as improving their control by having a soft feel ball to use around the greens. Becoming a popular choice in today’s market as manufacturers are developing mid feel golf balls that contain dual qualities of feel and distance.
Soft Feel Golf Balls
The soft feel cover means that a skilful player can add spin into their game and use the soft feel to help their game arround the greens. It doesn’t produce the distance of a firm feeling golf ball, but offers improved playability to those golfers that distance is not a weakness. The ball is not suitable for your typical amateur.
For the average golfer the grip is a vital piece of equipment. There are many professionals who play with out them. Freddie Couples comes to mind. As a kid he could not afford a glove and learnt to play without but for day to day golfers it is important – helps you feel comfortable on the club and less slipping and will help reduce the chance of a blister if you want to practise a lot and your hands are not used to that type of use. Lose your grip and ypu lose control.
There are a range of gloves from a price from $7 – $30. The following descriptions will give you an idea of materials and what is best for you:
The most common material has many benefits to golfers. The texture of the material is perfect for golf; it offers great feel to a player and it grips like a second skin. Leather is also very moisture resistant and will remain soft for a long time if cared for correctly. Err on the smaller size when buying as the will stretch over time. If the glove gets wet make sure you pull it to shape and let it dry naturally. Let in the bottom of the bag they will dry incorrectly and lose shape and dont leave in direct sun as the leather will harden and be ruined.
The all-weather glove does it exactly what it says. Targeted at the golfer that will play in humid or wet conditions, it is more water resistant than any other material and can offer extended feel in moist conditions. The light synthetic material is breathable and grips better the wetter it gets. Some makes come with a warmer cover inside for colder climates, it is undoubtedly the best option for golf in the rain or if your are sweaty in warm conditions.
Synthetic gloves are stretchy, the extremely lightweight material that suits a golf glove perfectly. Some gloves in the market do use 100% synthetic material; these will be more durable than a leather glove. Its lightweight, breathable and stretchy microfibres but does not offer as much feel as leather, but there are some makes that have a combination of leather and synthetic, the leather part being on the palm of the hand.
Winter and Mitts
There are two types of gloves aimed towards winter golf. The winter playing glove is a thick, often knitted or thermal material that is worn on one or both hands to play shots. It allows a player to maintain heat in their hands, which is useful for golf in cold weather. A mitt type glove will slide over a glove while not hitting to keep your hands warm.
The driving force behind the club
Probably the most impotrant part of the golf club and often ignored but the shaft is an essential part of the club that makes the whole club work. The length, flex, torque, kick-point, weight and alignment of the shaft all have an effect on the performance of your golf club. What does this all mean?
Types Of Golf Shafts
Steel shafts are stronger, more durable and generally less expensive than graphite and are made from carbon steel, although stainless steel is occasionally used. Steel shafts do not experience the torque or lateral twisting found in all graphite shafts and therefore the average player should benefit from the extra control. Steel shafts do require a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as a graphite shaft.
There are two types of steel shafts:
1. Stepped Steel Shafts
Stepped steel shafts are used to gradually reduce the diameter of the shaft from the wider butt end to the narrower tip end that goes into the hosel of the clubhead. A steel strip is rolled into a tube and then mechanically drawn until the diameter and thickness is correct. Stepped steel shafts are used in the majority of golf clubs by all the major manufacturers,
2. Rifle Steel Shafts
The main difference with Rifle shafts is that the steel is smooth from top to bottom and has no steps. The shaft design and construction uses different technologies to provide greater performance and consistency. Frequency Matching of each shaft perfectly matches the flex throughout a set of clubs using electronic calibration. The stepless design technology eliminates the energy-robbing steps' found on most other steel shafts, which Rifle manufacturers claim provides greater accuracy. Some Rifle shafts offer 'flighted' versions that can produce variable ball trajectories for different clubs within a single set.
Generally graphite is more expensive than steel and less durable. The lighter weight provides greater swing speed for more power, but it sacrifices control due to the flex generated during the swing. The variation in flexes (and colours) make graphite shafts a very popular choice with professionals and amateurs alike. They are also suited to lady golfers and seniors who cannot produce the swing speed to use a steel shaft effectively.
Graphite golf club shafts can reduce the weight of your club (you can really feel the difference if you’ve used steel shafts before). They weigh between 50-85 grams, while their steel counterparts generally start at 120 grams. Graphite shafts also dampen shaft vibration better than steel which is why several high profile injured golf pros recovering from surgery use them to receover. On the downside it is more difficult than steel to get a consistent feel and stiffness in a set of graphite shafted irons.
Graphite shafts are great for getting greater distances from today’s oversize titanium drivers as they allow shafts to be longer. But remember, longer clubs are good for distance, not for control. Lighter than steel and can be made in many variations, making it easier to select a shaft best suited to your game.
The major draw back of graphite shafts is that they needmore care than steel shafts. Make sure you have extra long headcovers on woods or padded dividers in your golf bag so that the paint on the graphite shaft does not get worn off, as this will negatively affect the performance of the shaft.
A recent addition to the shaft market is the multi-material shaft. Used on both irons and drivers, this shaft combines both steel and graphite into one shaft to try and get the best of both worlds. Typically it is mainly a steel shaft that has a graphite tip. The steel section of the shaft offers a solid shaft that allows players to control the ball flight more. The graphite tip lets the driver have a limited amount of 'whip' into the ball that can help produce more distance. The graphite tip also helps filter out any unwanted vibrations at contact to optimize the feel of each shot.
Titanium is a relatively new material in shafts. The shaft itself is lightweight (titanium being lighter than steel) and it has the ability to dampen vibrations, although this can give the shaft a stiff feel.
Sergio Garcia : Players Championship 2008
* TaylorMade Tour Burner TP driver 9°
* TaylorMade Burner TP 3-wood 14.5°
* TaylorMade r7® TP 5-wood 17.5°
* TaylorMade rac™ MB TP irons (3-PW)
* TaylorMade Z TP 54° and 58° wedge
* TaylorMade TP Red with LDP Technology
* TaylorMade Targa Tour glove
* adidas Golf TOUR360 LTD footwear
* adidas Golf ClimaCool® apparel, including ClimaCool pants
García is currently sponsored by TaylorMade Golf and uses almost all TaylorMade clubs. (2007)
Driver: TaylorMade r7 SuperQuad TP 9.0° (Marked 9.5°), TaylorMade Fujikura RE.AX 105 TP shaft
Woods: TaylorMade r7 TP 13.5° (Marked 15°) (3 Wood), RE.AX 105 TP shaft
Irons: TaylorMade rac MB TP (2-PW), Royal Precision Project X Rifle Shafts
Wedges: TaylorMade rac Satin 52° (Marked 50°) (Approach/Sand Wedge), Titleist Vokey Design 58° (Sand/Lob Wedge)
Ball: TaylorMade TP Red ball.
As at European Tour: HSBC Match Play
Driver: Callaway FT-i
Fairway Woods: Callaway X Tour 3- and 5-woods
Irons (3-PW): Callaway X-Forged
Wedges: Callaway X (56 and 60 degrees with Mack Daddy Grooves)
Putter: Odyssey White Hot XG #5
Ball: HX Tour
As at European Tour: Dubai Desert Classic 2008
Driver: Nike SQ Tour
Fairway Woods: Nike SUMO (15 and 19 degrees)
Irons (3-PW): Nike Blades
Wedges: Nike Pro Combo (56 degrees) and Nike SV (60 degrees)
Putter: Scotty Cameron by Titleist Studio Stainless Newport 2
Ball: New Nike ONE Platinum featuring Nike Power Transfer Technology
Footwear: Air Tour TW 8.5 with CHAMP Wafer Lite spike
Glove: Nike Golf’s Dri-FIT Tour
Apparel: Nike Golf Tiger Woods Collection Apparel
Driver: Nike SasQuatch Tour 460 cc driver (8.5 degree)
Fairway Woods: Nike SQ II 3 Wood (15 degrees) and Nike T40 5 Wood (19 degrees) *Tiger will put his 5 Wood or 2 Iron in the bag depending upon the course setup and conditions
Irons: Nike Forged Irons (2-PW) (all irons are 1 degree upright, have D4 swingweight, standard size Tour Velvet grips and True Temper Dynamic Gold X-100 shafts)
Wedges: Nike 56 degree Pro Combo SW and 60 degree SV LW
Putter: Scotty Cameron By Titleist Studio Stainless Newport 2 putter (standard loft and lie, 35 inches long)
Golf Ball: Prototype Nike One Platinum (only 1s with TIGER on them)
Golf Gloves: Nike Dri-FIT Tour glove
With the advancements of modern day technology if you are not smacking drives over 250 yards, you are losing ground. (pun!). If you observe the modern day tours most of the older players are having a great results in the stats and victories. Kenny Perry who is in his mid to late 40's is actually a few yards longer than Tiger Woods on average. Modern technology on an older head is useful. Vijay Singh has had up to now 19 victories in his 40's. Advances in sweet spot technology, size, launch angle, composition, ball speed and aerodynamics are just some of the categories that the top manufactures now spend millions of dollars researching and developing. The result to us is the vast array of drivers on the market. The following is a description of everything you need to know about drivers, and the drivers that we think are the best under certain criteria:
Steel headed drivers are slightly less expensive but heavier than the more modern titanium drivers. More traditional looking and metallic, they have a smaller head due to the increased weight of the steel, and the relative limitation in stregth of the metal means makers had to limit the size of the head.
Playoffs for the FedExCup
Pts. Through: The Barclays Aug 26, 2007
Rank This Week Rank Last Week Player Events Points Last Week Finish Pos Playoff Victories
1 12 Steve Stricker 1 104,950 1 1
2 5 K.J. Choi 1 102,900 2
3 6 Rory Sabbatini 1 100,650 3
4 1 Tiger Woods 0 100,000 DNP
5 4 Phil Mickelson 1 99,613 T7
6 2 Vijay Singh 1 99,000 CUT
7 3 Jim Furyk 1 98,850 T25
8 7 Zach Johnson 1 97,350 T25
9 10 Adam Scott 1 97,150 T14
10 19 Ernie Els 1 96,967 T4
11 20 Mark Calcavecchia 1 96,817 T4
12 14 Woody Austin 1 96,750 T12
12 8 Charles Howell III 1 96,750 CUT
14 9 Brandt Snedeker 1 96,500 CUT
15 11 Scott Verplank 1 96,341 T35
16 15 Hunter Mahan 1 96,225 T17
17 24 Geoff Ogilvy 1 96,217 T4
18 13 Sergio Garcia 1 96,150 T25
19 16 John Rollins 1 95,464 T54
20 17 Boo Weekley 1 95,441 T35
21 18 Aaron Baddeley 1 95,400 T25
22 22 Justin Rose 1 95,350 T14
23 21 Padraig Harrington 1 94,841 T35
24 32 Jerry Kelly 1 94,450 T9
25 23 Luke Donald 1 94,300 CUT
25 29 Heath Slocum 1 94,300 T14
27 25 David Toms 1 94,000 CUT
28 28 Stewart Cink 1 93,900 T25
29 26 Jonathan Byrd 1 93,850 CUT
30 27 Robert Allenby 1 93,700 CUT
31 36 Tim Clark 1 93,525 T17
32 30 Stuart Appleby 1 93,250 CUT
33 35 Nick Watney 1 93,225 T25
34 31 Henrik Stenson 1 93,175 CUT
35 42 Anthony Kim 1 93,075 T17
36 33 Bubba Watson 1 93,025 CUT
37 34 Ken Duke 1 92,950 CUT
38 37 Trevor Immelman 1 92,725 CUT
39 38 Mark Wilson 1 92,650 CUT
40 39 Pat Perez 1 92,575 CUT
41 40 Billy Mayfair 1 92,500 CUT
42 41 Jeff Quinney 1 92,425 CUT
43 43 Carl Pettersson 1 92,372 T72
44 44 Angel Cabrera 1 92,200 CUT
45 46 Charley Hoffman 1 92,176 T48
46 52 Camilo Villegas 1 92,140 T21
47 45 Lucas Glover 1 92,125 CUT
48 49 Rod Pampling 1 92,066 T35
49 47 Kevin Sutherland 1 91,975 CUT
50 48 John Senden 1 91,900 CUT
51 50 Brett Wetterich 1 91,750 CUT
52 51 Ryan Moore 1 91,675 CUT
53 53 Paul Goydos 1 91,651 T48
54 54 Nathan Green 1 91,551 T69
55 58 Kenny Perry 1 91,500 T25
56 57 Nick O'Hern 1 91,466 T35
57 56 Troy Matteson 1 91,426 T48
58 55 Ryuji Imada 1 91,375 CUT
59 59 Bernhard Langer 0 91,075 DNP
59 77 Ian Poulter 1 91,075 T9
61 61 Vaughn Taylor 1 91,033 T60
62 60 Jose Coceres 1 91,000 CUT
63 63 Steve Marino 1 90,876 T69
64 62 Brian Bateman 1 90,850 CUT
65 65 Rocco Mediate 1 90,720 75
66 64 Stephen Ames 0 90,700 DNP
67 72 Arron Oberholser 1 90,640 T21
68 70 Sean O'Hair 1 90,600 T25
69 66 Peter Lonard 1 90,550 CUT
70 81 Steve Flesch 1 90,525 T12
71 68 John Mallinger 1 90,497 T72
72 67 Bo Van Pelt 1 90,475 CUT
73 69 Stephen Leaney 1 90,325 W/D
74 71 Will MacKenzie 1 90,175 CUT
75 73 Fred Funk 1 90,151 T48
76 74 Brian Davis 1 90,064 T54
77 75 Dean Wilson 1 89,983 T60
78 76 Brian Gay 1 89,975 T41
79 82 Tim Petrovic 1 89,890 T21
80 78 Bart Bryant 1 89,754 T65
81 80 Davis Love III 1 89,675 T41
82 79 Joe Ogilvie 1 89,575 CUT
83 83 Jason Gore 1 89,374 71
84 84 Charles Warren 1 89,200 CUT
85 85 Justin Leonard 1 89,125 CUT
86 87 Retief Goosen 1 89,083 T60
87 86 Tom Lehman 1 89,050 CUT
88 90 Mike Weir 1 88,925 T41
89 88 J.J. Henry 1 88,900 CUT
90 92 Matt Kuchar 1 88,841 T35
91 89 Tom Pernice, Jr. 1 88,825 CUT
92 108 Robert Garrigus 1 88,750 T9
93 91 Steve Elkington 1 88,675 CUT
94 93 Chris DiMarco 1 88,525 CUT
95 94 Shaun Micheel 1 88,450 CUT
96 95 Kevin Na 1 88,375 CUT
97 97 Fredrik Jacobson 1 88,339 T54
98 96 Jose Maria Olazabal 0 88,300 DNP
99 99 Cliff Kresge 1 88,189 T54
100 98 Charlie Wi 1 88,150 CUT
101 100 Jeff Maggert 1 88,097 T72
102 102 Briny Baird 1 88,025 T41
103 101 Craig Kanada 1 87,925 CUT
104 104 Tim Herron 1 87,826 T48
105 103 Ted Purdy 1 87,775 CUT
106 105 Kevin Stadler 1 87,625 CUT
107 107 Bob Estes 1 87,579 T65
108 106 Chad Campbell 1 87,550 CUT
109 109 Jeff Overton 1 87,325 CUT
110 112 J.B. Holmes 1 87,275 T41
111 110 Ben Curtis 1 87,250 CUT
112 111 Tommy Armour III 1 87,175 CUT
113 134 Rich Beem 1 87,063 T7
114 113 George McNeill 1 87,025 CUT
115 118 Brett Quigley 1 87,000 T25
116 115 D.J. Trahan 1 86,983 T60
117 114 Daniel Chopra 1 86,950 CUT
118 117 J.P. Hayes 1 86,839 T54
119 116 Harrison Frazar 1 86,800 CUT
120 121 Doug LaBelle II 1 86,600 T41
121 119 Steve Allan 1 86,575 CUT
122 120 Mathew Goggin 1 86,500 CUT
123 123 Joe Durant 1 86,383 T60
124 122 Alex Cejka 1 86,350 CUT
125 132 Bob Heintz 1 86,325 T17
126 125 Bill Haas 1 86,251 T48
127 128 Jason Dufner 1 86,250 T25
128 131 Ryan Armour 1 86,215 T21
129 124 John Merrick 1 86,200 CUT
130 127 Johnson Wagner 1 86,079 T65
131 126 Jason Bohn 0 86,050 DNP
132 129 Frank Lickliter II 1 86,000 T41
133 130 Gavin Coles 1 85,750 W/D
134 133 Ryan Palmer 0 85,525 DNP
135 135 Tripp Isenhour 1 85,375 W/D
136 136 Billy Andrade 1 85,300 CUT
137 137 Anders Hansen 1 85,225 CUT
138 139 Corey Pavin 1 85,189 T54
139 138 Jesper Parnevik 1 85,150 CUT
140 140 Shigeki Maruyama 1 85,000 CUT
141 141 Michael Putnam 1 84,925 CUT
142 143 Andrew Buckle 1 84,879 T65
143 142 Bob Tway 1 84,850 CUT
144 144 Jeff Gove 1 84,700 CUT